Poulet de Bresse au Vin Jaune

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I don’t know if I’ve said this before (people of a “certain age” repeat themselves) but one of the reasons I didn’t take pictures until about 2 years ago was that I was always too busy gazing around, experiencing,  enjoying the moment and the people I love.  So that’s why I’ve been away this holiday.  No dedicated photographer/blogger  and, because of the move from the apartment to the house in Germany, no internet for 7 days and zillions of things to unpack.  Well now that I’m back on line and only have millions of things to unpack, I’m looking forward to catching up with your posts and blogging again.  Happy New Year!

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I had taken the train down to Sens a week early to prepare the house for Christmas.  I brought  a carry on and the little cat, Bandit, but had to leave the  tripod for my husband to bring in the car,  which was annoying because I love taking pictures of meals at the Parrets.   Before the family arrived, I was invited over for a lunch of roasted wild pheasant.  Delicious!  I brought over a pot of Roquefort mussels for the entree and of course there was cheese at the end.  I’m vaguely ashamed of the way I bullied M. Parret about the cheese.  At first he just brought the cheese from the fridge in a plastic container and plopped it in the middle of the table.  I reminded him that he had his public to consider and that his admirers who follow my blog would be astonished to see such lovely cheese products served in French Tupperware.   He asked me to fetch the cheese tray from the cabinet.  I’m afraid I laughed out loud.  No palate and questionable upbringing  :D

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The problem with not photographing and blogging during a long holiday like this is that I forgot the what and how of some of the food I made; crispy pork belly with homemade buns, sesame mustard beef ribs, elegant foie gras with a crispy potato cake and pot au feu broth, verrines of crab and salmon roe, fresh, fragrant bruschetta, mustard coated duck legs, Roquefort duck breast salad, etc.  Oh well, just have to make them again ;)

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I did take some pictures, but mostly in a spur of the moment, non-fanatical, whatever, way.  The Christmas Eve, impromptu Champagne breakfast was a moment not to be missed with M. Parret, the Veuve and French pastries.

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No photographers, but serious, dedicated eaters!  I like that.

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What a celebration!  We ate, drank, talked and laughed so much!

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When we weren’t invited out, I kept busy in my kitchen, stepping around family members and friends who were hungrily peering into pots and ovens and volunteering as tasters.  Sometimes pictures were taken after the fact, in American Tupperware, like these mustard coated, roasted duck legs.  M. Parret need never know :)

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Speaking of  M. Parret, we went into Paris for a day and lunch with our son at a large brasserie called Bofingers.  I guess it’s famous among the American tourist crowds but I don’t know why.  The service was horrendous, the food not even “correct” and the prices inflated past good sense.   Canned, tasteless foie gras, slapped on a plate without even a hint of garnish, figs with some sort of floury, sugary, can type coating.  Bleah!  We waited a really long time for our aperitifs, we waited a really long time for our entrees, we waited a really long time for our main course, we waited a really long time for our coffee.  No one wanted dessert.  We waited a really long time for our bill.  M. Parret would have walked out and we should have.  Parisian brasseries are usually wonderful places with food, service and prices that are “correct”.  Our son pointed out that most Americans who visit Paris expect to get indifferent service in French restaurants and for some reason, that adds to the “experience”.  Whoa!  Not us.  Though we did have a good time laughing at the food.   Anyway.

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Back in the day when my husband was in the Peace Corps, he was given a Toureg head wrap that he wore while riding his camel through the sands of Chad.  It seems that our son, working in Burkina Faso with Toureg refugees, also felt the dead on coolness of the Midnight at the Oasis indigo groove, but he’s got a car :)

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I think it’s a genetic thing.

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We invited the Parrets and Thierry over for a Boxing Day lunch to share my take on Hotel Les Pins’ Foie Gras with potato pancake in broth and Poulet de Bresse cooked in yellow wine.  When you think of a dish of chicken with wine and mushrooms, well yes, of course it makes sense.  But this traditional French recipe with yellow wine, girolles and trumpettes de la mort mushrooms takes this combination from mundane to extraordinary.  The local poultry man was featuring a variety of poultry products from Bresse for the holidays.  I asked for poulet (chicken) but he recommended poularde, explaining that this is a young, sexually immature hen; not raised for laying.  I agreed to try two of the poulardes but told him that the heads and feet simply MUST be cut off and disposed of, in his shop.  After that, he prepared the hens for cooking in a very convenient manner;  breasts, thighs, drumsticks and wings removed with finesse, the meaty carcass reserved and wrapped separately for broth, a packet of the chicken fat diced for melting and browning the chicken pieces, a packet of giblets cut into pleasing chunks to be browned and cooked with the chicken.  I always want my chickens prepared like this!  Maybe I’m not a Francophile, maybe I just like artisanal food processing; butchers, fishmongers, poultry people.  That’s probably it :)   I wonder if this kind of service is available in the U.S., Germany?

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Inspiration for this recipe comes from Saveurs, Hiver 2012

Poulet de Bresse with Yellow Wine and Mushrooms

1 Bresse chicken or a fatty regular chicken

Salt and pepper

1 large onion, cut into chunks

1 carrot, diced

1 bottle Jura yellow wine

10 oz chicken broth

2 tbsp butter

2 shallots, chopped

2 cups girolles mushrooms, rinsed

2 cups trompettes de la mort mushrooms, rinsed

3 tbsp creme fraiche

1 pinch saffron

Remove some of the fat from the chicken, dice and reserve for browning.  Cut the chicken into 8 pieces and season with salt and pepper.  Melt the reserved fat and brown the chicken, remove and set aside, then add the onion and carrot, cooking for about 5 minutes.  Put the chicken back in the pan, add the wine and cook for 3 minutes.  Add the broth, bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 45 minutes.

Soften the shallots in the butter, then add the mushrooms, cooking for about 4 minutes.  Add salt and pepper, then set aside.

Remove the cooked pieces of chicken from the pan and set aside.  Blend in the creme fraiche and saffron, simmering for 5 minutes.  Add the chicken and mushrooms and simmer for 2 minutes.

Wine suggestion:  Chablis

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About cookinginsens

An American living in Burgundy, France
This entry was posted in Cooking, Food and Wine, French, Main dishes, Recipes and tagged , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

48 Responses to Poulet de Bresse au Vin Jaune

  1. Rita Koch says:

    Rosemary, looks like you had a wonderful holiday with the whole family this year. So nice to see them all in pictures (you are an incredible photographer as well as chef) but we’re missing a candid shot of you! You got to put that tripod to good use and show up on the other side of the camera from time to time :) Miss you all, Rita

    • Thank you Rita. I’ll have to get Jade to show me how to use automatic camera. I only know manual :)

      • Rita Koch says:

        Brian showed me how to use a self-timer on my iPad. If he’s still around you can snag him to help you out with your camera. I know between he and Jade one of them can get you in FRONT of the camera :) Happy 2013 – wishing you all a happy, healthy new year in your new home.

  2. Mad Dog says:

    I missed you blog but you’ve certainly made up for the absence today!
    Happy New Year :-)

  3. Welcome back! We ran into the “American tourist” trap in Italy. They gave us squeaky mozzarella cheese. It’s not supposed to squeak. Not sure if they figured we wouldn’t know the difference (we do as we make our own) or it was off season and supplies were getting low. Fortunately the burrata we had in Rome more than made up for that.

    • Thank you. So disappointing about the cheese but I’m glad it wasn’t ruined for you. I want to go to Italy too!!

      • We had only two bad meals on our trip and that was the Almalfi coast and they were within 500 feet of each other. And one time in the north we asked for the house wine and it was vinegar! They took it off the bill. Normally house wines in Italy are lovely.

        • I’m surprised by the vinegar wine. You can usually depend on the house carafe wines in Italy and France. I’ll avoid the Almalfi coast in general :)

          • I think it was because it was off season. The place we stayed at, and I wish I could remember the name, had wonderful food. We should have eaten there all three night. And the scenery of the coast was stunning. More than made up for the food. And we were shocked at the wine also as everywhere else the table wine was better than a lot of the wine we get stateside. They keep the good stuff there!

            • Off season is no excuse because wine is drunk by the locals year round and serving a decent table wine costs very little. You’re right about them exporting inferior wines to the U.S. Also Japan.

              • Oh I agree, no excuse! You never know who you are serving. Besides everyone deserves a great experience, even those that might not have enough experience to recognize what is good and isn’t yet.

  4. Wonderful photos. Even in Tupperware, it looks divine. And good job taking care of business with the cheese platter. Decorum must be maintained!

    I love this recipe for poulet au vin jaune (I think you might have a little typo in the blog post title). Usually, I throw morels in there, but they can be hard to clean. Girolles and trompettes are probably better!

    And in New York there are great places that will prep your poultry. Although, they can be inconvenient to get to, so I have just learned to do it myself. Off with their heads! :-)

    • Thanks for the heads up on the title. The trompettes of death were so special! I want to use them in more dishes. I’m not really squeamish, it’s just pointless to leave things on the birds that I’m never going to use. My grandmother did fry chicken feet though.

      • NP! I love mushrooms. All kinds. I’m good with fungus :-)

        I see the point though about not wanting to keep something on an animal that you are not going to use. My grandpa keeps the heads . . . not sure why . . . he eats the feet, but I don’t know where the heads go! Gruesome!

  5. I have missed your posts! I am glad you have had a wonderful holiday season…

  6. The Fraussie says:

    I am sorry you didn’t like Bofinger. I grew up in Paris, I always went there with my parents after the Opera and we loved it… The food is usually amazing, I am disappointed that it wasn’t up to their standards. Because It’s so big and busy, It’s true the service can get very busy, but it never bothered us because we knew it was going to be like that.
    Next time maybe try the brasserie Julien, It’s a lot less touristy and a beautiful Art deco brasserie :D (http://www.julienparis.com)
    Your recipe looks amazing and it makes me miss burgundy sooo much. If you go in the Beaune region anytime you should try wine from the Chateau de Monthelie (Domain Eric de Suremain). They are friends and their wine is amazing (http://www.domaine-eric-de-suremain.com/histoire.php). I can swear you won’t get the typical french “indifferent service” (I have to say it’s Parisian that are typical acting like that than french people, and I say that as a true born and raised Parisian).

    • Thanks for the tips on Julien Paris and the Chateau. We love eating a drinking in Beaune, no disappointments there. We will never go back to Bofinger, there are so many great places in Paris that meet our expectations.

  7. Michelle says:

    Happy new year (sorry, I don’t know how to say in Germany)! You’ve been missed. Looking forward to what you cook up next.

  8. Tessa says:

    Looks like you had a wonderful time with family and friends this year! I’m glad that you are back, I missed your delicious posts and your gorgeous photography. Happy New Year to you and your family!

  9. Your tables are always so festive and pretty.

  10. cecilia says:

    This was a wonderful meander through your family and your food and your festive season and way beyond. Lots of You in this piece. And interesting that you held off from taking photographs for so long when you have such a good eye. Honed now I would say. Lovely to see you back, I have been remiss in checking, but since i have been reading your pages for so long i felt that little space where you should have been.. waiting, waiting. And now you are off again. You must love to travel.. i do too, though not so much now.. take care rosemary.. celi

    • Hi c. I’ve been following your posts on my Ipad while you were visiting your family. Looks like you had a wonderful time. The pigs look gorgeous and, I’m sorry, eatable :)

  11. rsmacaalay says:

    If those are the dishes I dont mind to be the eater, forget about photography

  12. Karista says:

    What wonderful adventures you have! Love your posts and I’ve missed reading them from being so busy these last few months. Delicous recipe as well. Now I’m hungry. :)

  13. It’s simpler just to get mugged in the street than to wait for a serveur chez Bofinger to take all your money. I think muggers might even be slightly more polite. Good to see you back. Happy New Year to you and the family from Jenny and me:)

  14. hello, Rosemary – so glad to see you back. I look forward to your posts once more :D

  15. Aarthi says:

    Gorgeous pictures! I have a mixed relationship with photography myself – always torn between wanting to just enjoy the moment and capturing the moment. But I have grown to love taking pictures of my food, but I am yet to become a serious photographer.

  16. Sounds like a perfect couple of weeks! We had a wonderful meal at Bofinger but the service was a Little slow :( Gorgeous recipe too, good to “see” you again Rosemary!

  17. Conor Bofin says:

    Brilliant to have you back Rosemary. Pity that place in Paris is not good, what with it having my surname as part of it’s. Bofin…
    Best,
    Conor

  18. Wonderful food, except for the Bofingers experience! Welcome back! The chicken looks and sounds delicious. I bought a poularde for the first time a couple of weeks ago and found it beautifully tender and tasty, cooked with preserved lemons and white wine, but the flesh would have been great however it was cooked. I asked not to bring the feet home too!

  19. Paula says:

    Cute to read you have had such a nice time last Christmas! :)
    Even with that bad experience at the restaurant, that, as always, it can happen to us, we never know if we’re going to discover best place of world or a “take me out of here now!” when we try a new place ;)

    Last week we made your magret de canard a L’Aquitaine, and at home all we loved it, so thank you for the recipe!! When I want to cook poultry or canard, I know where to come for the recipe, it never fails with you ;) And it’s not easy finding a recipe that mom, dad and my boyf like, we have different tastes ;)

  20. What a wonderful post! It’s like a little mini movie of your family and holidays, and I love the shot of your son and husband in the Toureg head wraps. Say, is that a beret on top of that head wrap? What amazing adventures you have, along with the amazing food! I’ve been lax during the holidays about keeping up, so am glad to see you up and running again. Happy New Year!

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